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Making whoopies: new North End bakeries

Lainie Frost

Issue date: 4/13/06 Section: Lifestyle
The evening air's aroma causes throngs of people to gravitate to the North End each weekend, where the narrow sidewalks are bustling with folks looking to end their night with a tasty treat-and hence, an important decision: which pastry or dessert shop to visit?

With well-known shops like Mike's Pastry, do new places really stand a chance? If Italian native Frank De Pasquale is behind its creation, the answer is yes.

"We felt the area and we felt the need for a gelateria," said De Pasquale. "I have so much support in this area. We're already made."

De Pasquale, one of the resident big fishes in Boston's teeming pond of Italian joints, has launched other seemingly-redundant but wildly successful Italian ventures before, such as the ultra-trendy Mare, Bricco and Umbria restaurants.

He is now testing the waters of the dessert world with Gelateria, located at 272 Hanover St.

A classic yet trendy pasticceria (an Italian word that combines the ideas of a bakery, candy store and ice cream shop), Gelateria seems too small to hold the depth of culture it embodies. As soon as you enter, however, the youthfully melodic Italian tunes playing in the background can inspire even the most exhausted employee to sing along jubilantly.

Gelateria's propped-open doors and welcoming storefront epitomize Italian hospitality.

"We're Italian-we're used to doing things our way," De Pasquale said. "The counters [and] ice cream machines are from Italy too."

Even the staff is imported. "The baristas [servers who prepare coffee] are from Italy," said De Pasquale.

For patrons not on the run, Gelateria houses tables decorated with miniature menus. Although the menu does not include the 50 (and counting) different gelati flavors, it does list coffees along with other desserts the restaurant serves.

These include the prerequisite cannoli and tiramisu, as well as originals like "Magic Cake," which is made of layers of white and dark chocolate mousse with a cherry ganache center, and Chocolate Caramel Pyramids (made just like it sounds).
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