2008 Woodie Awards
Morning-after brunch cures post-party pain
Miriam Clithero
Issue date: 9/22/05 Section: Lifestyle
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Some find their post-party perk-ups in drug stores, on the Internet or in unsolicited advice from friends (like drinking cranberry juice, coffee and lemonade all at the same time). But for many folks, brunch at the neighborhood greasy spoon is the end-all, be-all hangover cure. Let's face it: many of us have woken up groaning and clutching our heads with a belly rumbling.
The East Coast Grill's Sunday brunch in Inman Square (MBTA Red Line to Central Square) is a blessing for any mid-morning food lover. It caters especially to the poor hung-over soul with the super spicy "Hangover Cure From Hell via Trinidad" ($5.75) appetizer that has sausage, roasted habanero and pickled pineapple. Famous for its fresh seafood, the Grill's oysters and clams on the half shell (1/2 dozen for $10.50) are a popular (albeit strange) and adventurous way to start the morning, especially if there are regrets about last night's reveling.
Show up ready to have a pre-brunch cocktail or a glass of fresh-squeezed juice at the bar because seating is strictly on a first-come basis. From the moment the doors open at 11 a.m. and until the host stops seating at 2:30 p.m., the place is packed to the brim.
Owner and award-winning chef Chris Schlessinger has created a truly unique way to take a stab at curing that tiresome morning-after headache: a build-your-own Bloody Mary bar that boasts habanero-infused Absolut vodka ($6.50) and aquavit (a caraway-flavored Scandinavian liquor) to jumpstart the day while waiting for a table. If a Bloody Mary is too much in the morning, the bartender will mix up a mimosa with fresh-squeezed orange juice ($7.50).
The list of scrumptious entrees ranges from the three-egg "Breakfast Platter" with rice, black beans, fried plantains, heart of palm salad and a tortilla ($8.75) to the "Cornbread Encrusted French Toast" served with orange marmalade, tropical fruit and sweet Vermont maple syrup ($8.75). There are more than enough choices for a meat lover to bite into as well. The "Cuban Reuben" is filled with succulent brisket ($9.75) and the smoked duck-stuffed tortilla rellanas, served with sauteed garlic greens and "loca salsa rojo" ($11.75), are an innovation to the brunch-loving world.
If your wallet is feeling a little skinnier and a less extravagant meal is in order, try Herrell's Renaissance Cafe on the corner of Brighton Avenue and Harvard Avenue in Allston (MBTA Green Line/B train to Harvard Ave). Not only do they serve goodies under five bucks, but the food is relatively healthy and they have vegan options.
Employee and self-titled "Barron von Lunch" Andrew Pease said customer favorites include the mini egg sandwich with cheese ($2.00), the breakfast burrito ($3.95), banana and blueberry buttermilk pancakes ($4.38/5.71) and the super thick challah French toast ($4.90). For lighter fare, a crispy toasted bagel with butter ($1.14) or vegan sun-dried tomato Tofutti cream cheese ($1.90) is a great way to wake up and start the day.
For dorm residents, The Paramount (44 Charles St.) is a classic restaurant on Beacon Hill, a short walk from the West or East side of campus, and a longtime favorite haunt of Emersonians. Brendan McCarthy, a sophomore writing, literature and publishing major, calls the Paramount "stellar" because of its unique character.
The Paramount, which has been serving locals since 1937, is open daily for brunch and is a cafeteria-style restaurant akin to other well-known eateries like Katz's Delicatessen in New York City. Sleepwalk through the line, grab a tray and order, and by the time the cooks have finished the Texas Style French Toast with compote and cream ($7.25) or the blue cheese, bacon and spinach omelette ($6.95), miraculously, a table has opened up.
Tierney Model, a junior communication studies major, said she loves the Paramount's food because of its homemade feel. "It tastes like your mom's cooking," she said.
For folks living in the Fenway area, Thornton's Fenway Grille (MBTA Green Line/D train to Fenway) may already be part of your vocabulary. If not, this is a place that should not be missed, especially for devoted sports fans. The six televisions within the restaurant make it easy even for tired eyes to watch Boston's beloved Red Sox hitting big at an afternoon game. There is also outdoor seating for smokers and sunbathers, weather permitting. Brunch is served seven days a week, from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday, and from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday.
The Belgian waffles, however, with butter, syrup, strawberries, bananas and cream ($5.75), are served only on the weekends so don't come in whining for them on Thursday-- the wait staff won't care. There's plenty of other fare to grease your palate, however, like the "Stripes" omelet with jack and cheddar cheese ($6.95) or the "Pink Panther" omelet with sausage and red peppers ($6.95).
Like the East Coast Grill, patrons that wish to partake in a pre-lunch cocktail find all judgment checked at the door at Thornton's. The "Cook' Mimosa's" ($5.50) flow freely and their special blend of Finlandia vodka, ice cream and fresh squeezed orange juice ($6.00) is a creamy, delicious wake up call.
In an ideal world, there would be no consequences for overindulgences that occur on a particularly notable night out. Luckily, there are plenty of restaurants waiting with open arms and dynamic food to lift you out of your stupor.